fourth Test Post

First of all

Get yourself some basic tools, and don’t skimp. The best source is www.micro-tools.com, kind of like the amazon.com of camera repair.They have EVERYTHING and the prices are good. Then there’s always the old standby, your local Radio Shack, where you can outfit yourself with all the basics: sets of precision screwdrivers, needle files, precision tweezers and clamps, dental picks, soldering irons (standard is the 25 watt, get a coil holder too)*, wire. The needle files were one of those ‘why didn’t I buy these sooner’ purchases. Other things you’ll need: a blower and brush for lenses, fine sandpaper, X-acto knife, magnifying glass. You’ll need Kimwipes (or lint-free photographer’s wipes, a $3 box will last forever and you should probably have them anyway), clean cotton rags, and many many Q-tips. Don’t forget an old toothbrush, essential for getting gunk out of tough spots and designed not to scratch the finish! Cleaners and solvents: Windex/Glassex for glass, I also use vodka – it’s pure ethanol and distilled water, leaves no residue; Flitz metal and fiberglass cleaner for chrome and brass is OK but I prefer Circle 7 rubbing compound. Lexol is good for cleaning leather; and for cleaning moving parts or stuck shutters I use either lighter fluid like Rosonol or 97% isopropryl alcohol as a solvent. Ether is OK but doesn’t dry as cleanly as lighter fluid (which you should use VERY carefully). For lubrication I use (very sparingly) the Radio Shack Teflon-impregnated light oil for little parts, comes in a pen-like dispenser (you can also use Nyoil watch oil) or for larger moving parts like lens helicals I use a high-quality synthetic bearing grease from a bike shop. Usually, on a camera clean is better than lubricated. Also get some Pliobond for gluing leatherette and foam, and some Duro cement for permanent glue jobs and epoxy for even stronger bonds. Use them all sparingly. And always leave the camera open overnight after working on it to let the solvents outgas.